Silk History

Table of Contents

A Short History of Silk Embroidered Arts

Silk embroidery is one of the worlds oldest art forms with a history that traces the development of man-kind from his early Neolithic days through to the present.

There is some conjecture as to the exact origins of silk art although it is certain that the process was known to the ancient cultures of the "East".

Originating in China almost 5,000 years ago under the influence of a culture of great diversity and in association with the pottery and bronze industries, silk art was primarily developed from the use of silk as a fabric. The nature of the civilization, often one in which warfare was an event lasting centuries, had a profound influence upon the development of the silk industry and it gained an importance that would have an influence upon western civilizations that were a long way from evolution.

Ruminants of silk have been found in ancient Egypt and the origins are most certainly China.

Suzhou or silk embroidery had its earliest beginnings in the lower reaches of the Youngest River Valley in Wuxian, Suzhou and rapidly spread to Wuxi, Yangzhou and Changzhou. These regions of ancient China were ideally suited to the development of the silk industry; the geographic nature of the regions were ideal for the growth of the silk worm and with the support of a government structure that had long periods of stability the industry flourished. The trade value of silk cloth was recognized from the earliest times of its development.

Under the protection of the Shang, Zhou and Han Dynasties ( 2,100 BC - 220 AD ) trade with the west and particularity that of fabrics and pottery flourished. The Arab States ,the Indian Sub Continent, Eastern and Northern Africa and Western Europe were all part of the trade links that existed as part of the Chinese culture.

By the time of the Han Dynasty, silk embroidery was being used as decoration for all types of garments and for the recording or events and for official documents. During the Three Kingdoms Periods ( 220 - 280 AD ) the Emperor Wu Sun Quan, commissioned the master embroiders to produce maps of the kingdom to include all the rivers, major buildings, mountains and towns in exact detail.

The history of the silk trade into Europe predated Marco Polo by several centuries. It is only the Europeans who consider that Marco Polo was the first European to travel to the East. The Chinese however acknowledge that trade with Europe existed for many centuries and clearly state that both Marco Polo's father and uncle were present in China prior to the arrival of Marco; hence, the history books of the "West" should be taken with a grain or two of salt.

The Bayeux Tapestry dates back to 1050 AD. The Bayeux Tapestry is a silk embroidery on a linen background. The silk had its origins in China and would almost certainly have been carried overland by the caravans of the early Tang Dynasty traders. To make the assumption that trade developed throughout the world as a result of western exploration would be entirely misleading. Trade existed between the Asian cultures and the African and Arab nations as long ago as the Shang Dynasty ( 1600 - 1100 BC ).

During the Ming Dynasty ( 1368 - 1644 AD ) the emphasis was on the development of a technique known as painting by needle. A technique where the design and needle-work began to closely resemble nature. The detail that was achieved with this style required the silk thread to be divided into 48 separate strand, this resulted in works of incredible detail and would be the most prolific of the styles followed in the future. Silk embroidery of this style is featured in the embroidered silk garments that silkporcelain market. This is especially so for the silk embroidered tops, vests and womens dressing gowns and robes.

Silk embroidery reached its peak during the Qing Dynasty ( 1644 - 1911 AD ) with a divergence of styles being used.

Styles

Chinese silk embroidery has developed into four main separate styles. This is only to be considered as a generalization as there are many styles that are used such as the knotted style of stitching that silkporcelain feature with the embroidered pottery art.

Yue Embroidery

Xiang Embroidery

Shu Embroidery

Su Embroidery

Yue Embroidery

Yue embroidery is a style representative of Southern China, it is also known as Canton embroidery. The style is characterized by the use of a variety of stitches and are predominantly brightly colored, rich in content and very decorative. The style is very often found in association with tourist products because of its simplicity and colorful appearance.

Xiang Embroidery

Xiang embroidery originates from Humun Province during the time of the Warring States Period ( 475 - 221 BC ). Many of the techniques used are derived from Su and Yue embroidery. It is a style that uses a wide range of stitching and is represented today as the main source of works produced for the tourist and commercial market. It is a style that is relatively quick to produce and tends to lack the luster of the other styles. The stitching employed in Xiang embroidery is sometimes described as cross - stitching.

Shu Embroidery

Shu embroidery from Chengdu Province uses soft satin colors and is often found as decorative art on items such as cushions, handkerchiefs and pillowcases; it is characterized by fine, small and delicate stitching techniques.

Su Embroidery

Su embroidery dates back to the early beginnings of embroidery in China more than 3,500 years ago. Su is represented by many different techniques. Some works are delicate, others rich in design while others may be simplistic. A great variety of stitching is used and several methods may be used in the one piece.

With Su embroidery the threads are often separated into 48 strands, each strand almost invisible to the naked eye. This technique was expanded and elaborated upon during the Ming dynasty. Su, is the most intricate of all the different styles and is often produced as "double - sided" embroidery , which are produced on a single piece of silk fabric and are identical from both the face and the reverse sides. Such works are often displayed in a free standing frame.

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